Whether it is a newspaper announcement of your home team's win in a championship game, antique manuscripts of your family's history, or rare historical autographs, it is important you care for them before framing them. A careful visual test of the paper/vellum will determine the extent of conservaation needed.
And, of course, make sure the framing components used are truly made of inert, archival material. Using average, frame shop framing materials, after you preserve your paper items doesn't make any sense as not using preservation grade mats, glass and backings will continue to effect your documents.
Depending on the makeup of the paper you are framing or protecting, use the right solution ingredients to neutralize and preserve the paper, vellum or other objects from the acids or decaying substances from eroding the document over time. This is critical as the item(s) are trapped in the frame and/or scrapbook and the acids inherent in the item can cause the document, photograph or manuscript to erode over time.
Once it is deteremined the document or photo needs to be treated, it is ready for framing. And, make sure the mats, glazing and backings all are made of the most protective elements to ensure longevity.
No point in framing an item with the highest museum grade materials if the paper contains acids that many late 19th to 20th century documents contain. That's analogous to putting on formal attire for an important event without taking a shower.
So, protect your family keepsakes, rare letters or important antique photographs by doing the necessary treatment to preserve and maintain them for many years to come.
]]>It was through Rick Malone I met alot of other collectors and business contacts for building my conservation framing career. Rick kept me so busy in my early years that I barely had time for personal enjoyment.
Of course, developing friendships with other collectors and traveling to antique stock bond shows, like the popular one in Lancaster county, Pennsylvania was something most of us looked forward to every January. Cold and snowy, it was a fun time for all.
When framing these precious documents, especially those signed by major business leaders of yesteryear, it was important that we make sure the mounting methods conformed to several factors. This includes age, paper makeup, degree of wear (condition) and placement of cancellation marks.
Many stocks and bonds had the stubs glued to the side which summarized the stock. If possible, it is important to deacidify the connecting point so the acids of the glue doesn't eat into the paper.
And, of course, frame only with 99% UV filtered glass, 100% cotton rag material and archival polypropylene for final outer backing.
Usually, when framing these decorative pieces of history, we include a portrait of the businessman. This may be John D. Rockefeller, J. P. Morgan, Thomas Edison, Henry Ford, Hetty Green, Marcus Garvey or J. Paul Getty.
You get the picture. An incredible diverse group of famous individuals who left a mark in the business world. We use many of these products and services even to this day!
Additionally, we can engrave and include a biographical plaque detailing historical information and the accomplishments of this individual. This is a nice highlight of the framing package that many collectors enjoy.
Regardless of how you frame your certificate, just make sure the framing is done correctly and anything done to it is fully reversible.
Happy Collecting!
]]>Colonial paper money was issued by each of the 13 colonies when they were under the British monarchy. Each colony was responsible for the use and redemption of it’s own currency.
Paper money was issued for the construction of roads, courthouses, etc. Continental currency was used to finance military expenses of the American Revolution. They were denominated in pounds, shillings, and pence. Virginia, for example also used dollars as a monetary unit. These notes were printed on high quality durable rag paper, which is why they lasted all these years.
The 13 colonies were represented by Connecticut, Delaware, Georgia, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, and Virginia.
Think about it. These colonial notes are over 230 and contain signatures from important business and government leaders. A few issues even bear signatures from signers of the Declaration of Independence.
The main unique features of these notes are their incredibly artistic and interesting designs.years old and depicts its own unique design. Some have mythical figures, animals, food, phrases, etc. Also counterfeiting these notes meant death for the offender. It even states that on the back of most currency. And, they weren’t kidding!
Owning colonial paper money is like taking a trip through the earliest years of our nation. Imagine who handled and used this currency in their daily lives. The signatures are a testimony to the incredible journeys this money endured centuries ago. Imagine the people who handled this money. Paul Revere, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin. As a matter of fact, Franklin had his own printing press where he and a partner printed currency for use in Delaware and Pennsylvania.
People who fought for our early cause handled this money. Those who signed our important early documents, like the U.S. Constitution even signed some issues stating the strength and hope for prosperity of our newfound nation.
Our country was small in the beginning years, but, it was the determination and ambition of these men and women to pave the way of a free country for all of us.
So, the next time you look at our early money, know that the people who handled this may have crossed the Delaware with our Commander-in-Chief George Washington, fought at Lexington and Concord or was at the end of the Revolutionary War seeing Washington accept Cornwallis’ sword as a term of surrender in 1781.
]]>Of the many years we have been in this industry, we have never seen our share of jerseys damaged from improper handling and framing. We have seen it all - tape, glue, cutting, slicing and trimming portions of the jersey and/or related artifacts to make the framer's job easier.
Framing a jersey, a ball, puck, etc. involves know-how of the framing process. Doing this correctly involves the expenditure of proper materials, labor to do the correct components in mounting and framing.
If you are opening a sports bar and framing randomly unsigned and/or noncollectible jerseys, then maybe proper museum framing isn't what you are after. You may need just the frames to provide an atmosphere for restaurant patrons only.
But, if you purchased an incredibly significant jersey signed by the MVP scoring touchdown after touchdown, and you were at most of his games; then, you want your treasure to last many years without any issues.
Properly framing important jerseys involve: 1) Right mix of all the conservation materials to do the job, such as 99% UV glazing, 100% cotton rag materials and the needed mounting supplies to protect the jersey, 2) Correct and experienced knowledge in building strip side lifters, mounting the jersey and placing in the glass or acrylic so it remains a firm fit, and 3) Using a sturdy wood frame to contain all of the components within it.
As a collector, know the sports dealer or seller you are buying the framed jersey from. What materials did they use in the framing process? How was the jersey mounted? Was 99% UV glazing used?
These are all important factors as they take part in whether the jerey will last many years or start falling apart once framed. That's right! We have taken apart framed jerseys that commercial grade adhesives like glue and tape was used on the jersey.
The only way to remove the jersey was by damaging and/or tearing it so we advised the customer to either take it to a textile conservator (which would be very expensive) or see if there is any recourse from the original seller.
Remember, your jersey will be framed in a sizeable frame and give you years of enjoyment and satisfaction.
Don't go to a fly by night or arts and craft chain. Go to someone who really knows what he or she is doing and understands your compassion.
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Over the years, we have had many collectors, dealers, museums and the general public bring us maps for framing. Whether it was a 15th century map or a one from a recent atlas, people enjoy the depth of detail and beauty of maps. People also buy maps to show the places they have visited.
It's for this reason, we are constantly framing maps and using preservation methods to ensure their longevity. Ironically, maps of recent age are more likely to deteriorate than early maps. The reason is that maps within the last 150 or so years are usually made with wood pulp paper leading to aging and foxing in the paper.
Earlier maps can also be harmed and affected with improper framing. In a recent case, a collector from New York wanted me to reframe a map be bought already framed from a dealer. He was concerned with some bleed through in the map.
Once we received the framed map, we took it apart. The map was mounted with acidic tape onto foamcore backing, As I have stated in previous blogs, please avoid using any foamboard material in the framing. Only used a double layered backing of 100% rag before archival polypropylene rigid boards.
Our business was able to neutralize the antique map but because of the coloring, we avoided doing a careful pH neutral chemical bleach.
Regardless of the framing, prevent the framed map from hanging in direct sunlight. Every day the sun hits the map, that can cause colors in the inks and watercoloring to show fading over time. Of course, with minimal grade glass, the effects will be more noticeable alot sooner.
99% UV glazing, acrylic or glass, is required for framing. Make sure your framer uses this grade glass and not a knock off. Many framers will cut back to save money not realizing the harm substandard glazing does to antique paper.
Finally, please make sure your framer uses 100% reversible hinges! These can take the form or mylar corners, polyester sheets or strips. We make our own strips to ensure they conform to the antique map or print.
Never use any tape unless its true conservaton grade reversible tissue and the paper weight is appropriate.
Our firm had to reframe several antique maps for a known west coast museum because their framer used underweight hinging which caused the maps to break from the hinges and slide within the mats. Thankfully, the maps were't damaged, but this action could have had negative consequences.
Wherever you take your maps for framing, PLEASE make sure they used the required materials and techniques to protect your print or map. Let them demonstrate what they would do and how they would do it.
Whether an old map or one printed last year, Museum Framing always explains in detail our framing techniques and materials. You have invested money and have sentimental feelings with your purchase, let the framer know you want it framed correctly to last without any harm.
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Few documents intrigue me as much as this one I framed for collector, Matthew Hagans, of Kentucky.
Mr. Hagans comes across the most incredible documents and artifacts from famous people as Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne, Robert E. Lee and Ulysses S. Grant. And, not just routine letters, but also unique items such as the last telegram reporting the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Just this weekend he picked up a contract for the famous movie, True Grit, with the contract signed by John Wayne.
But, this week, Mr. Hagans asked us to frame an unusual letter stating the compensation for Matthew Thornton, signed by Meshech Weare, President/Governor of New Hampshire. Thornton was a signer of the Declaration of Independence from New Hampshire and Weare was the President of New Hampshire given the duty.
Collecting any of the 56 signers (or all if you have the means) of the Declaration of Independence is an exciting and rewarding task to achieve. This is because many signers are hard to find, or very expensive.
As mentioned above, Thornton was a signer from New Hampshire, but did you know he was only one of 8 signers born in Great Britain?
This particular document was signed on November 26, 1777, a little over a year of signing that incredible document. This accounts for payments of Thornton's service between January 6, 1776 to January 5, 1777.
Only one similar document appeared at auction for fellow signer Josiah Bartlett for his service in signing the Declaration of Independence.
Holding and framing such a unique letter and protecting it with proper framing techniques is an honor to pass this item to the next collector.
Understand we are temporary custodians for this treasures until the next collector comes along.
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Of all the items sold through college bookstores, it is my belief that diploma frames are grossly overpriced. Seriously!
When you see the quality of the frames, mats, glass and backs, it amazes me they get that kind of money. The materials used are low quality, minimal grade and, given the amount of people who ask us to fix issues with the frames, it's not surprising.
Over my 33 years in the framing business, many people have brought me their diploma frames to mount their diplomas or repair something that needs fixed. This has allowed me to personally inspect these frames. All I can say is that some of these frame companies have hit the jackpot!
Specifically, the glass, mats and backs are commercial grade material offering virtually no protection for the diploma. This is a very common situation with diploma frames across most college and university bookstores.
One time, several years ago, I took apart a University of Virginia diploma frame for a customer because a light tint could be seen through the diploma. It turned out the acids from the backing stained the back over a period of years. The below is backing board which deteriorates and breaks down over time. This is due to acids in these boards and a simple touch causes it to flake!
Why are diploma frames so expensive?
For one, three parties are involved in the profiting from the sale of the frames: 1) The manufacturers, 2) The intermediary who owns or operates the college book stores and decides which items are sold and the selling prices, and 3) Finally, the college or university.
When you consider these big corporations wanting their share of the pie, two things happen. Either cost goes up to compensate the need for additional profiting for the parties involved. Or, the quality of the product goes down due to the need of using less expensive materials to save money for larger profits.
Of course, a combination of both elements can apply allowing BOTH lower costs and lower quality for MAXIMUM profiting of all selling parties involved.
In any of these cases, the consumer loses. Be it the student, parent, friend or relative buying the frame, the end buyer gets hosed. He or she overpays for a relatively inexpensive quality frame.
When you consider the amount of time, money and effort that was applied to earn that diploma, you think a higher quality frame to protect the diploma from harm would be desired.
One may ask "Why do people buy a college diploma frame?"
Simple. Some like the gold lettering printed on the mat. There's no special gold ink used to print it on a mat. You can even get a printed to use an Old English font to do your own stamp.
Also, why do you need the college or university name printed on the mat even though the college or university name is already emblazoned on the diploma!
As P.T. Barnum once said, “There’s a sucker born every minute!”
]]>Can a large arts and crafts store provide better prices and service than individual expert frame shops?
Believe it or not, this is a very common question I get asked from people calling or emailing me from outside the region. Their belief is that big box custom frame shops provide better prices and faster service than non chain stores.
The thinking is that bigger stores have volume buying power and pass that savings onto the consumer. Although their inventory may have sales prices, their framing operations don't.
The coupons and "sales" are totally false and lure on customer's lack of framing price knowledge. The minute people see the word "coupon", they automatically assume they will be getting a deal.
On the contrary! In a recent lawsuit filed by New York Attorney General, he stated that Michaels used false and deceptive advertising and promotions to bring customers into their frame shop.
New York Attorney General Eric Schneidermann showed where Michaels was sued for providing false coupon discounts when they were really charging FULL PRICE!
As a matter of fact, in my case, people would ask me to fix something wrong with their frame jobs if something wasn't right. When I found out what they paid and what they received, I was shocked. My prices were more competitive even comparing my 100% Museum grade procedures to their typical framing prices.
As I have learned from some of my customers, these stores don't necessarily have the cheapest prices when it comes to framing.
Going back to Michaels, they settled by paying $800,000 in civil penalties and donating $1,000,000 to fund arts and supplies to New York schools. Basically, a slap on the wrist for a company of this size.
That's like robbing a bank for $50,000 and your only punishment is donating $1 to the piggy bank of the president's child.
Before you believe these stores have economies of scale (buying power), think again. These megastores have huge overhead and plenty of waste, like store theft and loss of income due to human error in framing, etc.
To run a framing business with minimal waste/errors and at the same time with delivering the quality and expectations customers expect, the owner needs to have an active presence. Since 1989, personally, I have examined most of my client's work with rare exceptions.
My clients are very important to me. Serving them with high quality framing, very personal service and reasonable prices is what they have come to expect from me. It's for that reason that I am very grateful for their business over the years.
As a matter of fact, I have developed long lasting friendships with many clients due to similar interests from running my business.
When vacation time comes once a year, we close with advance notice to our clients. There's no temporary or part time people serving our clients. It's just me working with people. I enjoy interacting with people and use my 33 years experience for them.
And, my framers enjoy working on people's important artwork ensuring things are done properly and avoid problems as seen above.
Big box stores can't offer personal service. As an example, a regular client needed an important piece framed for her husband’s funeral wake. I ordered the framing materials she desired. When my framers finished it on time, I personally drove it to the funeral home before people arrived.
It's not about the money, but being there for someone in need. As a consumer myself, I have certain expectations.
As businesspeople, professionals or any other occupation or career you have, nothing feels better than contributing to someone's life.
]]>As a collector and dealer of historical autographs for over 35 years, seeing autographs and historical documents damaged by improper framing is very upsetting. Once an autograph is harmed and shows damage from a poor framing job, it's virtually impossible to restore it.
Most seasoned collectors and dealers shy away from autographs when they are framed unless (1) they are allowed to inspect them out of the frame or, (2) are assured the autograph is not harmed in any way through negligent framing.
A high grade signed document, letter or photograph can lose a tremendous amount of value if the framer takes shortcuts or is ignorant of the correct ways to protect the item while framing it. Through the years, I have taken apart frames for the autograph only to be disappointed in the mounting and framing of the item.
During my days of dealing with historical documents, autographs, old currency and fiscal paper, it was my added service to offer framing to my customers to make it convenient for them without the added hassle they would bear if they dealt with a framer.
Since this was the early to mid 1980s, before the widespread use of the internet, research had to be done at the local library. Going to the reference section, I studied the necessary techniques and materials needed to protect papers and artifacts while framing.
Taking what I learned from the library, I went to a frame shop and explained what needed to be done to protect my autographs I was selling to other collectors. Repeatedly, I had to explain to the owner or employee on duty how these items had to be treated during framing.
So, I ended up visiting another framing business when things didn't work out with the previous framer.
The straw that broke the camel's back occurred when I received a call from a customer from Texas. A couple weeks earlier, I sold him an attractively framed collage of a Civil War bond, currency and a block of stamps with a battle scene and an engraved descriptive plate.
He explained to me that the bond came loose out of the window and the worst part was common household tape was used to mount the bond! What???
Yes! Against what I explained the idiot framer used acidic tape to mount my items. Unbelievable!
At this point, I relinquished my relationships with these businesses. Many know I entered the conservation framing business because of asinine shortcuts these people took. No more could I depend on these so called professionals to do what I paid them to do.
Peace of Mind and the assurance of getting what I can deliver is very important to my collectors, dealers, museums, the public and, eventually, myself. No way will I accept anything less for them.
Unlike the previous frame shop owners, I don't want someone getting upset with me because I failed to deliver what I promised
If you can't get someone to do it, do it yourself! So, I did. In 1989, Museum Framing was born.
It was my objective to perform only TRUE museum grade framing and at a fair price so we can remain in business for many years.
So, here is how my staff and I provide the framing needed for historical collectibles, autographs, antique prints, even contemporary items like college diplomas!
First, the below diagram shows the components needed to equip a full 100% Museum Quality product. (1) Frame - of course to keep art package secure and sealed, (2) Artwork should have fully reversible mounting (nothing evasive), (3) 99% UV glass or acrylic, (4) 100% Rag matting, (5) 100% Rag backing to protect art backing, and (6) 100% Archival grade thick polypropylene...not foamcore!
First, there are generally 4 types of matboards: (1) Paper mats - these mats are made of wood pulp and are the lowest quality available. Many frame shops sell framing using these boards strictly for economical budgetary reasons. They should only be used for short term, unimportant items, like college dorm art. (2) Alpha Cellulose mats - these are slightly better than paper mats but still not made for long term matting or framing. (3) Rag mats - These mats have a 100% cotton pure rag core and backing. The top layer is finest quality fade and bleed resistant. These mats are considered conservation quality and excellent for many important artwork and artifacts. (4) 100% Rag mats - This is the absolute best matting and backing material on the market obtainable. This material has a solid color surface, core and backing. These matboards are meant for important artwork, historical autographs and documents, rare maps, diplomas and anything else you want to preserve from deterioration.
As a matter of fact, when any previously framed items of previous years needed reframing, any artwork that contained rag mats and backs showed NO signs of being framed.
One area that framers compromise on that I have witnessed is the glazing (glass or acrylic). First, many framers don't think it's important - WRONG! and many unethical framers shortchange the customer in order to make more money. Really!
It's virtually impossible to tell straight on if the glazing is museum grade. You either have to trust the custom frame shop or wait a few years to see if any fading occurs. Really, any fading, depending on amount of light hitting the framed art will take some time. Either a couple months or a few years.
As an example of the damage of fading, notice how newspapers darken and become brittle when exposed to the sun or other strong lighting.
Also, NEVER allow a framer to use any foamcore product in your framing. Either regular or acid free. Both will out gas and cause eventual harm to your artwork. Over time, foamcore will discolor and brittle over time. Use archival grade coroplast as a backing behind rag backing.
Hopefully, this blog explained some of the questions or concerns one may have regarding framing.
Being involved as a collector for many years, I truly have a concern to make sure these items are protected and preserved for many years!
When visiting a framer, ALWAYS ask questions! If he/she can't give you honest, direct answers to your concerns or if there is an uneasiness, it's time to check out someone else.
Remember, you are a temporary curator and custodian for the artwork and artifacts you own. You are protecting it for the next generation!
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Over the years, I have had numerous people contact me about finding a good frame shop when they are a distance from me and concerned about shipping the item(s). I understand their concern, even though a good portion of my business involves people shipping to me as I am fully insured when they ship on my account.
The above rare and expensive map was permanently glued to acidic board due to the framer's carelessness.
In one very odd situation many years ago, I had a collector of early currency, National Bank Notes from late 19th century/early 20th century call me about framing his currency and what materials I would use. I explained the usual glazing, archival grade mats and backs and how to mount the currency protecting them from any damage. Being a long time currency dealer/collector, I had a personal concern that this paper money was properly framed.
I never heard back from him until...
About a year or two later, I get an irate call from a gentleman stating the signatures on his currency faded significantly and some of the seals and serial numbers faded into a very light blue, almost washed in appearance. Figuring, he was a customer, I asked him for his name so I can look up his invoice and what was done.
It was at this point, where he said that we didn't frame them, but he took the information I gave him to a local framing business.
At this point, I was very upset that he accused me of an action I had no part in. I told him the information I gave him is what we do at my framing place and conforms to the Library of Congress framing standards. Also, I stated that he has no right blaming me for someone else's work!
Its like accusing Morton's or Ruth's Chris Steak Houses for the lack of quality of one of those buffet style steak restaurants!
Be careful about taking any important, valuable, sentimental and/or irreplaceable items to frame to a framing place unless you are 100% sure they will care for your art and collectibles with the utmost care! You can't turn back time if errors happen.
In another case, recently, a long time collector of historical autographs took a very rare Revolutionary War dated letter signed by George Washington to a large arts and crafts business to frame. You are probably guessing what's next.
Well sometime later (maybe year, or two, or ?), she calls me and tells me the letter has slightly toned and some of the writing and signature has faded.
I expressed my sincere condolences as George Washington's documents and letters are very desirable and valuable.
She visited my office and I took apart the frame. First, I noticed the glass was not UV filtering as it did not have the same edge tint as the conservation manufacturer's sample. Secondly, the letter was matted with a known wood pulp based mat, which should never be used. Only 100% cotton rag should be used.
Lastly, the framer did not use an archival backing board, but mounted the letter directly onto foamcore! Ouch!
She asked me what I can do as she paid for UV glass and archival matting according to her invoice.
At this point, I felt badly for her. But,being this is a well known big box art and craft's national chain, to approach the manager and show him/her the evidence.
If that doesn't work, seek legal counsel. The loss in money due to the framer's neglect valued to tens of thousands of dollars!
Unfortunately, people have relayed similar situations over my years. Enough to write a short novel!
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My response would always start with the same response.
"What are you framing?"
If you are framing an antique item, like a map or print, the answer is yes. Framing a sentimental or valuable item like a wedding photo? Again, yes it needs protection from the elements of the environment, such as light.
But, if you are framing an inexpensive rock poster you bought for your child's dorm room while in college? Probably not. My "wall decor" while in college was discarded when I moved out of the dorm.
It is very important that 99% UV glass or acrylic is used on any important or valuable artwork and artifacts. The image at the beginning of this blog shows the disastrous effects of not using true conservation glazing.
Through interaction with other framers and reading articles they and customers have written, I have noticed that many rely on the term "acid free" to indicate quality. In truth, "acid free" does not signify quality. It's just a buzz word used to promote and sell products.
When disassembling artwork for any number of reasons, when I noticed a mat burn or discoloring around the artwork, the customer would tell me the framer would state they used acid free materials. And, yes, according to some manufacturers, the materials may be labelled "acid free".
However, these mats they used had wood pulp in it. And, over a period of time, that wood pulp would break down through exposure to heat and light and bleed on the artwork. The diploma shown above is an example of damage caused by typical "acid free" mats sold by general custom frame shops and big box art and craft stores.
The bleeding would eventually leave a mark around the artwork and cause what is called a "mat burn". And, the longer the mat came in contact with the artwork, the darker and more pronounced the stain affected the art.
It's always important to archival materials and techniques on your art. Service your art with important treatment so it will be preserved and last without deterioration.
It’s rare when I don't see the negative effects of common framing materials affect the aesthetics of a person's art. Either colors fade or even change appearance. Writings become light and in some cases, barely noticeable. Or, foxing can appear in the paper.
Foxing is when brownish spots are scattered throughout the paper. This can be due to the acid levels of the paper or moisture and humidity coming in contact with the paper.
So, in summary, yes, if you want to frame to last, use the necessary materials to protect your items without worry of harm over time.
And, remember, if it's worth framing, it's worth protecting!
]]>Recently, I had a customer want me to repair a framing job he had done remotely (through a frame by mail outfit). He was well pleased with our fix.
He then asked me if I could price the job using our standard museum grade materials and our normal archival mounting.
"Sure, no problem" I said. "But, this is not apples to apples". He was aware of that.
After giving him my estimate and a similar frame as his was made of a poly plastic, ours are made of wood, he found our price to be only $50 more.
He asked me how we can keep our prices in check like that and stay in business. Even though our business philosophy hasn't changed since its start in 1989.
But, I told him its easy by maintaining low fixed overhead. (This is the Business 101 I remembered from my college days). Our money goes into framing supplies, materials and paying for expert framers........not rent or other bloated overhead!
I wasn't being funny, just honest. When I started this business back in the 1980s, I couldn't fathom having a bloated rent bill every month. Good times or bad, I realized that rent bill had to be paid. Just find a good, clean space where clients can easily park and access our business.
Also, the incremental costs of doing to full museum quality versus minimal is much less than you think.
Plus, since day one, I have refused to cut corners or quality to make an extra dollar. To me, that's not right.
If a restaurant buys a slightly lower quality of meat, they will save money and that adds to more profit in their mind. And, if you take off a little bit of meat every time you cook a hamburger, you save even more money.
Really? Do you see the point? A business would rather nickel and dime their customers to save a quarter here and there than give them what they expect and win them for life?
The below image shows how a frame shop used inexpensive, regular glass instead of the conservation grade 99% UV glass. She was very upset so much of the work was faded. (Notice the original colors on the side that was hidden under the mat!)
Framing businesses should give their customers what they expect and at a fair price. The best customer is one made for life.
Custom framing is no different than any other businesses. Keep your customers happy and you win them for life.
When I was a stockbroker back in the day, my manager said it's easier and more profitable long term to keep an existing customer than to lose that customer and try to find a new one.
He was right then and he would be right today!
]]>A smaller framing business may not have the purchasing power that big operations do, but they have a more personal desire to ensure the framing job is done correctly and as the customer expects.
Not too long ago, a customer came in and asked me to repair a job he sent to the mail order framing operation. The acrylic sheet broke and he needed it replaced. The item framed, a rare antique wildlife print, wasn't damaged as the acrylic didn't pierce the print.
However, not only was the plexiglass non UV filtering, but the print was glue mounted on foamcore. He was surprised and asked me if I can remove it. Examining the print and how it was mounted, I honestly told him it can't be removed, not even by an expert conservator. The above photo is an image of foam core yellowing through the acids over time.
Although he wasn't happy it couldn't be removed, he asked me to put it back together with UV glass. No problem.
I also mentioned to him to contact the framing business and explain the value and age of the print and ask them why they would glue mount it on foamboard.
He didn't feel comfortable confronting them. I understand.
Before you trust volume, low quality framing businesses, know what you have and want to frame. If it's an inexpensive photo of your office holiday party, no problem.
But, if its a rare map or irreplaceable photo of your great grandmother, think again! It's virtually impossible to redo what may have been improperly framed.
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Regarding displaying your paper treasures, keepsakes and valuable documents, consider that that vast majority of these known Big Box stores hire employees with little or no experience in framing. Our archival framing operation, Museum Framing, as had many people apply to our business over the years looking for better pay and better opportunities from the big box stores.
We require that framers looking for employment here have years of experience in proper and exact methods of conservation framing, archival art handling and other museum application services.
The photograph you see at the top of this blog was framed by a nationally known big box arts and craft chain store. As can be seen, the signatures have all faded completely or partially. Apparently, when I disassembled the frame, I noticed only regular non UV glass was used. Even though it was ordered, the framer neglected to include that all important material in the entire framing process.
Of course, other required materials weren't used which also would have protected the photograph, but none was used.
We could only do so much once the item suffered deterioration. Signatures, colors and appearance can't be restored not matter the restorer's expertise.
When having your important items framed, don't use common regular wood pulp mats, foamcore, nor commercial grade material like brown corrugated for backing. And, certainly don't use regular hardware store type glass!
Many of these items are sold and labeled as "acid free".
They're not!
The above is an important and rare Revolutionary War dated document signed by Paul Revere in 1779. Before he contacted us, the customer was going to have a well known big box store frame it...until he heard how they were going to mount the item in the mat.
We obtained the famous portrait and had a biographical plaque engraved for the framing. The client was so pleased, he ships us items to frame from his collection half way around the world.
Over the years, I have seen artwork and other important paper objects get adversely affected by improper framing.
As a matter of fact, a stain is usually left on the item where the acidic mat had contact with the artwork.
The most damage with people's artwork I have seen came from big arts and craft stores and internet based frame it through the mail operations.
Of course, small mom and pop shops can and do damage if they aren't familiar with the care, handling and framing of fragile paper, but volume wise, the big guys do the most damage.
Personally, over the years, people have asked me to examine their framed works on paper when they detect a problem or are generally concerned.
Many of these framed works have included dry mounting, taping down or gluing down artwork, using low or no protection glazing (glass or acrylic) and highly acidic materials.
If you are an artist needing paint supplies or doing a home/school arts project, these big box stores are great.
If you have low cost rock posters for a down room or office photos to frame, these mail it and frame it operations are great.
But! If you have something valuable, sentimental or an antiquity item to frame, go to an expert with the knowledge, integrity and expertise to handle them.
It grieves me as a passionate collector to see items get damaged through the ignorance of the framer.
]]>When it comes to storing antique or sentimental paper, the first thing one must do is treat certain types of wood pulp paper so it doesn't continue to breakdown or age in appearance over time. Next, store these items in clear polyester (mylar) sheets or 100% cotton based material, like containers or albums.
Finally, store them in a cool, dry dark environment like a closet or drawer that's not in the attic or basement. This also includes the bathroom. Humidity, strong light and moisture are paper's worst enemies. Plus, these environmental conditions can attract insects, which love to feast on paper.
Old tape is a favorite of insects, like silverfish. I kid you not when I tell you I have seen dead and live silverfish in a frame or album of old paper.
One time, about 10 years ago, I opened a frame with old tape and paper sealing it and a silverfish jumped out and scurried under the work table!
Can you say gross??!!
When storing your sentimental paper keepsakes, make sure you follow the above guidelines to prevent damage through acids, the close environment, even human neglect.
]]>It still surprises me that many frame shops think taking certain precautions in protecting one's artwork is unnecessary.
For example, most framers, even long time framers think it is a waste of money to put 100% museum grade cotton rag mat between the art and the final backing. As a matter of fact, most framers just use foamboard products as the only backing.
Not only is foamboard bad for your art, but putting your art directly on foamcore with no inner backing, specifically rag board, is asking for trouble.
As I have shown before, over a period of time, foamcore out gasses and decomposes over time. The product turns a brownish color and even brittles and will affect your artwork.
This is why many museum professionals, conservators and institutional framers advise against using any foamcore products, even so called "acid free" foamboard. It will deteriorate over time like regular foamcore, but it may take longer.
At Museum Framing, we use 100% archival grade inert polypropylene, also known as Coroplast. This is a plastic like product that offers excellent protection, doesn't out gas and remains stable and constant over many years offering full protection.
As a matter of fact, collecting and dealing with historical manuscripts, I have had many older framed documents come into my path of business. When I open the frame, I see no change in the materials and, more importantly, no change in the condition of the historical document. The autograph is still nice, crisp and bold as I remember from years past.
However, one time, I was going to purchase a document signed by Thomas Jefferson and James Madison that I remembered was offered by a dealer in New York a few years back. At the time, I remember it had a nice strong signature and crisp engrossment within the body of the document.
When finally offered the same document, I noticed a complete difference in its condition as it was framed elsewhere. The signatures were light, losing most of its bold ink and you could barely read the inner wording of the document because of the fading it experienced.
I removed the components of the frame and noticed two negative aspects. One, no UV protective glass and, two, the document rested directly on foam core. Two no no's!
I told the collector I was not interested as it wasn't the same document I remembered from a few years ago.
When I sent him pictures and he compared from the original lot description and photograph, he was visibly upset. Being that it was several years ago, he felt he could do nothing. He may be right.
The value of the document dropped a few thousand dollars in price and the collector was left with a less desirable artifact in his collection.
People! Please exercise extreme caution in getting your artwork framed by an arts and crafts store or a local frame shop unless they have a record of working on such important items.
]]>Preservation Framing is the same as Museum Framing which is also the same as Archival Framing. Another term used is Conservation Framing, but this is mostly in the museum and library circles.
Generally speaking, these descriptive terms mean that the object(s) or artwork to be framed involves using the necessary techniques and materials required to ensure long term protection and preservation.
Unfortunately, over the past 33 years I have been in the framing business, many frame jobs I was asked to inspect or repair had labels stating their dedication to museum quality treatment, fell short.
In one case, an expensive rare charcoal sketch used commercial low grade backing board. In such a short time, acids started affecting the back of the paper leaving a light stain. We replaced the acidic materials with the necessary Museum quality materials to prevent further problems.
By the way, the frame shop put a sticker on the back attesting to its "museum quality framing."
The glass was regular non UV filtering with minimal protection. And the matboard/backing board were made of milled wood pulp, both which offered little or no protection to the artwork as you see above. Notice the hint signs of staining starting to form around the back of the sketch. If the framing remained, the stain would have become darker and deeper into the paper.
As a collector of antique maps, prints, documents and coins, it has always been my focus to protect items of historical, sentimental and monetary value that people bring me to frame. I can relate to the importance of these items and appreciate my clients are concerned with protecting them.
Oh, and the difference in costs are slight. But, there are those in the industry that put profit over quality. Of course, that can be said about any business. Profit is important, but be honest with your customers.
Fine arts, historical documents and manuscripts, even a photograph of a young puppy with the owner or child's art are all items worthy of fine archival treatment so they can last for years of enjoyment.
]]>With gas over $4 a gallon and inflation creeping up, we all must watch our dollars. I'm not saying you must avoid the commerce activity offered online or at physical brick and mortar stores.
What is needed though is rationale behavior when buying goods and services anywhere.
For years, I have had people contact me and bring in items they have had framed elsewhere that had problems. In one case, I had a person bring in a civil war letter she had recently framed elsewhere that had the General's signature faded!
I opened the frame and we both saw the framer did not use UV protected glass. UV filtered glass prevents the harmful UV radiated light from constantly hitting your item or artwork. This negative light will over time cause colors to change and inks to fade on paper.
Same thing happened when a local woman brought in a couple pieces of prior framed photographs of professional hockey players, all signed - again recently framed.
Not only was the photograph dull and showed less crispness, but a couple signatures, according to the customer, were completely faded!
Unfortunately, nothing could be done to restore any of lost signatures.
Many framing retailers have been careful with their spending dollars during these times. But, you can't cut back on archival materials meant to protect artwork and artifacts.
A person who goes to a fine, expensive steak house expects top quality food given the prices and atmosphere - no matter the economy!
At Museum Framing, we only carry products and materials used for protecting and preserving people's items from deterioration. After all, people usually patronize a frame shop to attractively their important works while preserving the integrity of the items.
It's better to wait to get things framed later when in a position to afford to the framing, then spend less (or in some case, a lot) for lower quality framing that will stay with you for years.
Although we offer wholesale pricing based on my personal philosophy, we still see how prices have increased recently from our suppliers.
During these times, we have seen good business from current and long term clients, but cautious behavior from new clients. Guess what? That's OK. If you are unfamiliar with the frame shop, ask questions.
It's your items and your money! Ask away!
Just be careful when patronizing a framing establishment!
]]>While many forms of art appeal to many people with a variety of tastes, nothing is as unique as beautiful, colorful financial documents with ornate designs and engraved vignettes captivating the owner. These documents, when framed with portraits and descriptive plaques, make historical and aesthetically attractive wall displays for the owner or collector.
In the land of virtual and digital transfers of information and images, it's hard for Millennials and people not familiar with the day when investors and corporations had to sign financial paper to redeem them.
Well many of those certificates and other documents had famous signatures of John D. Rockefeller, Thomas Edison, J.P. Morgan, Henry Ford, Hetty Green and even Presidents of the United States.
Before these people were known or wealthy, they had to raise capital to fund a new venture or growing, existing corporation. As officers, major investors or during redemption, they signed the front or back of the certificates or bonds with their signatures.
When they achieved incredible wealth and known status throughout the United States and world, their signatures became valuable and highly sought after.
J.P. Morgan Chase bank was named after John Pierpont Morgan, an incredibly successful and wealthy investment banker, financier and philanthropist of the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Thus, you can obtain several types of financial instruments of various companies with his signature on it.
Same with Rockefeller, Edison, Carnegie, etc. The list goes on. During the Industrial Revolution and growth of transportation throughout the United States and abroad, investors were seeking capital for their ventures. To accomplish this, they issued stocks and bonds with the various amounts sold.
Some of individuals signed as an officer, some later signed as an investor when redeeming the paper investments.
In today's era, if you wanted a famous signature like Bill Gates or Elon Musk on their company stock or bond, good luck!
Not only don't they sign their instruments anymore, but getting them to sign anything is next to impossible. Unlike entertainers of yesterday, they don't need to do shows, like comic hero shows, to get some extra cash.
Additionally, these items make incredible and impressive works of art, unique to any office setting. Just make sure these documents are properly and framed with strict conservation framing standards.
This is a great and addicting aspect of autograph collecting. And, one with great aesthetics. Study and learn about acquiring these pieces of incredible financial history. You would be surprised the vast amount of wealth, influence and philanthropy these individuals these people left on America.
]]>Many collectors and dealers of antique maps seek our services in properly framing their maps or their client's purchase(s). They know as a long term collector myself, it is my concern that their map is fully and attractively framed for many years of enjoyment.
But, when a buyer chooses to go to a big box arts and crafts store or, even a local frame shop, I cannot stress the importance in letting the framing department employee know how vital it is in using proper materials and techniques. Otherwise, the map will be affected to the point of not only losing its original crispness, but also losing its value.
First, instruct the framing staff you want mounting strips, corners or other hinging techniques that won't permanently adhere to the map. This includes common household tapes, moistening hinges, even generic framing tapes. If the customer doesn't want polyester/mylar showing when the map is floating or has thin margins, then fully reversible tissue, that doesn't require moistening is fine.
For matting and backing, only 100% cotton rag material should be used. And, don't believe the common term "acid free" as many framers claim. Those mats are anything BUT! Over a period of time, those mats will stain the map where the mat lay and can't be fixed.
Regarding backing, use 100% cotton rag backing AND acid free coroplast. A layer of cotton rag backing adds protection and preserves the map for many years to come.
Finally, only use 99% UV filtered glazing, be it glass or acrylic. Everyday, light from a variety of sources will come in contact with your framed map. This glazing will protect it. But! also, keep the framed map out of direct sunlight. A sunny room is fine as long as the path of the sun does not directly impact the map.
Over the years, people have contacted me with problems they have experienced with their framed map from framers not well versed in art preservation. It's critical you let the framing business spell out how and what materials they will use in protecting your map.
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Of the over 30 years I have been in framing, it amazes me how framers treat, mount and frame art and artifacts for people who patronize them. On a weekly basis, it's not unusual for someone to contact me through email or phone informing me of a recently framed item which shows signs of deterioration.
Recently, a woman called me to ask me my opinion on a rare map she bought framed by a known gallery. She gave me permission to remove it from the frame to examine it.
Knowing antique and rare maps, this particular example was a rare 1862 E.G. Arnold's map of Washington, D.C., which depicted the Nation's Capital at the outset of the Civil War. These are large maps (approx. 30x33") which were designed by Arnold, a civil Engineer. Seasoned collectors and expert dealers know the value and rarity of a highly sought after map as this and are always looking for prime examples.
When removing the map package from the frame, the owner and I noticed the map was very firmly glued to the backing. This is a tragedy as this framing treatment diminishes the value and creates irrevocable damages to the maps.
We also noticed the glass was not archival quality. A map with original color and detail can also suffer when not protected with true museum grade glass. Just think of the daily exposure of the sun and/or other lighting and the harmful effects when not preserved through proper glazing.
The matting was also glued to the foam backing, both of which are no no's. First, the matting should never be glued to the backing and secondly, the backing should never be foamcore board, not even so called "acid free" board.
Foamcore will outgas and discolor showing the rapid release of acidic pollutants in the framing package, including the map. Being trapped in an inferior framing package will accelerate the deterioration of the map.
This extreme example of poor framing is not exclusive to the seller/framer of this antique map, but is widespread in the framing industry, especially arts and crafts chain stores, also known as big box stores.
Our framing business, Museum Framing, is regularly called by people who have had bad results when having their valuable items framed by these stores. They usually don't notice until much later when the framed artwork is hanging on display and they visually pick up on the change.
It also has been my experience, through speaking with customers visiting my business or contacting me through email or phone, that their prices are higher than mine. Even with the "discount" coupon.
How can that be? It's called high overhead of these mega stores. Saving a few percent more when buying in quantity does not negate the very high cost to lease such a large space. But, I digress!
When you get something that's important framed, always ensure they are using the correct materials, techniques and can easily explain these to you without hesitation.
After all, you are paying good money for good framing, right?
As an avid map collector, some of the early colonial maps are, perhaps, some of the most striking cartographic masterpieces ever printed. How the early map makers possessed the ability to draw a very accurate image of land is beyond my imagination.
The following map, over 400 years old, is a case in point. Although erroneously titled "Virginia", it's really a incredibly accurate likeness of North Carolina. Of course, shortly afterwards, Virginia was given the correct depiction when the cartographers mapped it thoroughly and accurately.
This is the major draw to collecting scarce and popular collectibles like presidential or historical autographs....It's the thrill of the hunt and studying your acquisitions that makes it a challenging and thrilling vocation.
When starting to collect autographs, the first thing to do is research the area that interests you the most - The Colonial Wars, American Revolution, Presidential, Science, etc. Also, study and learn about autographs that interests you.. As with any considerable purchase, know the market.
When I see overpriced items sell, it alerts me two things occurred: 1) The buyer really wanted that particular item at any cost and needed it now, or 2) The buyer didn't know or study the market. If it's a very rare item, #1 takes play, but if it's a fairly common autograph or document, #2 was the more likely the reason.
When buying autographs, know your source. For example, the reputation of the seller is a huge factor. When researching internet auctions, I have noticed many questionable autographs for sale. Most of the time, the seller prices the item below market to entice the buyer.
A friend of mine, who is a collector, purchased a George Washington signature from an unscrupulous dealer I have seen. After showing him proof of it being a forgery, he filed a claim and received a refund.
You can ignore the feedback on an auction site when it comes to buying autographs online. Either the buyer doesn't suspect fraud or after the buyer gets a refund, an agreement is reached between buyer and seller and the negative feedback is usually withdrawn as desired by the seller. In the above case where the seller had many obvious forgeries listed, his feedback was 99%, because it is assumed agreements were reached with the buyers.
Try to avoid buying clipped signatures (autographs on a slip of paper). Unless there is provenance attached to it or it was sold from a known vintage autograph book, the item can possibly be a fake. Think about it this way, it's easier to forge an Abraham Lincoln clipped signature than 20 $100 bills. Get it?
When it comes to historical autographs and documents, stick to documents, autographed letters, notes and items with solid provenance. Just avoid clips unless it has strong provenance and it's a rare signature.
Assembling a collection of autographs or documents from Presidents or Signers of the Declaration of Independence is very popular, yet challenging. A document or letter signed by William Henry Harrison as President is very rare. One prior to his presidency is not rare.
An autograph of Button Gwinnett, a very rare signer from Georgia, is also very hard to come by. His items can go from the lower six figures (recent clipped signature at auction brought over $300,000) to a July 12, 1776 signed letter brought $600,000. If you are assembling a complete set of Signers of the Declaration of Independence, you need Button Gwinnett to accomplish that.
Content is key to valuations. Strong, important content brings considerably more than a routine letter or signature with no important content.
A letter signed by George Washington accepting a dinner invitation is far less costly than a letter signed by Washington discussing the Constitution.
This is one field where you need to have patience, know how and some money, depending on the depth of your endeavor.
In the end, you will be surprised when you build a little fortune from a collection of historical and presidential autographs.
As a child, history always fascinated me. Studying Ancient Greek and Roman civilizations and through modern American history held a special place in my heart. Knowing how our ancestors lived made me think and take in what they endured throughout history.
My interest in world and American history enamored me with historical documents, ancient coins and other fine antiquities and collectibles. When I own a coin dated during Alexander the Great's reign (about 330 BC), it gives me a rush of excitement wondering who touched this coin. My thoughts ponder as to if the person who held/spent this coin met or spoke with the ruler. Maybe even the ruler himself!
When you touch a coin with rulers or other historical figures from ages ago, there is a very strong chance the person was alive during the minting and circulation of the coin, especially if it's noted to be a "lifetime issue". Sounds so surreal, doesn't it?
Likewise, when I have a document signed by George Washington, I know for a fact he not only signed it but he also held it in his hands and viewed it with his own eyes. Owning a document signed by Albert Einstein or Susan B. Anthony also brings thrills of history and excitement. Take someone who faced adversity, such as Frederick Douglass. When he wrote or signed documents or letters, the issue of being a slave must still be fresh in his mind.
No amount of movies, textbooks or lectures will ever give you same thrill or deep thought as these signed letters or documents by notable people. These items have actually seen history and involved people who were in the depths of historical happenings.
Heard the common phrase If these walls could talk? Well, these documents do talk! Each letter or signed document has a reason for its existence. As a matter of fact, many letters are written by many famous people expressing their thoughts, views, opinions and their current events. Just read their writings and find out.
Whether it's an old coin, historical autograph, antique map or whatever, every historical creation has its reason for existence and may have famous people or events connected to it. And the time since their creation many critical events occurred.
When you acquire that certain antiquity or genuine collectible, you get lost in history and wonder what that item has seen. It certainly happens to me and I never get tired of the fascination.
Collecting historical autographs has intrigued me for many years given the fact one can own a real piece of history. When first coming into this collecting field many years ago, my first thought was "Aren't these documents locked away in a museum or archives?" It's easy to assume that. But, many important letters and documents are in private collections.
As a collector and specialist of historical autographs, when I handle a document signed by Abraham Lincoln, it would sink in that Abraham Lincoln personally touched, looked at and signed that sheet of paper. As a matter of fact, I remember many years ago a dealer was offering a letter signed by Lincoln that had slight smearing of the writing and a fingerprint by the signature. Wow!
You can buy a document or letter signed by James Madison, Thomas Edison, Susan B. Anthony, or Booker T. Washington for a very reasonable price and know that you purchased a slice of their life. How cool is that?
During my 40 years of buying and collecting autographs or documents, experience has taught me several things to beware. If you heed the following advice, you will avoid the pitfalls I have experienced in my early years.
First, avoid clipped (or cut) signatures. This is where the only thing on the slip of paper is the signature (along with maybe a couple/few words). One reason to avoid this type of autograph is that just a signature tells you nothing about the individual who signed it. Why did the signer sign the paper? Kind of a boring item to collect, right?
But, more importantly, one reason to avoid this format is due to the many examples of fake cut signatures on the market. When looking at internet auction sites or visiting general antique venues, it amazes me the number of fakes offered. Recently, I saw a fake clipped signature of Abraham Lincoln sell for over $3000 on an internet auction site.
You also need to exercise caution when buying any autographs that have been framed buy an unknown or questionable source. For one, a frame can cover the flaws of a signed letter or document. An example would be gluing the item to backing, like acidic board.
As a matter of fact, I have taken apart frames currently offered by a particular seller of autographs and other related artifacts who consistently frames important items by heat gluing them onto the backing. This destroys the value and renders them virtually worthless.
Secondly, an unscrupulous seller may try to intentionally pass off a fake or severely damaged item through framing. An item that is virtually hard to sell by itself would entice the seller to frame it to hide any flaws or, far worse and deceptively wrong, cover any signs of the item being a copy or forgery.
Lastly, and strictly the opinion of the author of this blog, but try to also be very careful when buying modern sports and entertainment signed pieces from unknown or nonreputable sources. Through the years, it is my observation that unscrupulous sellers sell fake autographs through many non vetted outlets like internet auctions or tourist spots.
As shown on my Frameabilia website, I verify, back and guarantee all offerings through personal and independent sources both containing many years of experience and knowledge. Not only do I deal in autographs, but I am also a long time active collector
Buying and collecting historical documents offers cultural and educational aspects. And if you employ the above "rules" of collecting, you will find it to be a truly fun and challenging hobby that awaits you.
The thrill of collecting ancient coins is when you imagine what kings, emperors and other famous ancient people touched and spent these coins. Nothing is more exciting than thinking if Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar or even Cleopatra touched a coin.
According to fictional portrayals, Cleopatra was depicted as a beautiful, stunning woman. This is a picture of a genuine ancient coin with her portrait. Notice her name on the right edge.
Ancient coins can be collected by country, by ruler, by designs, even by a grouping of rulers. The Twelve Caesars, as an example, is a very highly collectible, sought after and hard set to assemble (depending on your requirements). You can get the more common, less expensive coin representing Julius Caesar which is shows an elephant on the obverse (front).
Or, you can get one with the man himself on the obverse, minted during his life (called a Lifetime issue) for several thousand dollars at minimum. This Twelve Ceasars set is popular to assemble in both gold (aureus) and silver (denarius) with, of course, silver being more affordable and easier to accomplish.
When purchasing ancient coins, it's strongly recommended that you buy coins from a reputable source. Avoid internet auctions that are populated with many sellers, unless the coin is authentically certified by NGC or ANACS. These are two well known authentication agencies in the ancient coin field. Also, verify the certification of the coin.
But, whatever you do, don't buy from an internet seller without investigating the coin and seller thoroughly. In scanning auction sites, I have seen many fakes passed off as the genuine. So, use caution before buying.
In the end, ancient coin collecting is a very educational, popular and rewarding hobby with many collectors involved. It also presents challenges of collecting. For example, assembling a Twelve Caesars set to your specifications can be hard.
Always do research before you buy or know an experienced person in the field. Ancient coins have been popular with Kings, Queens, the Wealthy, Celebrities, Politicians even scam artists. If you due diligence before buying, you will enjoy collecting without fear!
One of the most interesting items I have framed lately is a note written by Abraham Lincoln toward the conclusion of the Civil War where he orders a young man to be sent to his mother. Rarely did President Lincoln evoke emotions in his orders, such as discharges, but this one must have really stirred Lincoln to react.
Sometime ago, I received a call from two brothers who purchased an Abraham Lincoln signed note which they wanted properly preserved and framed. They called from north of Philadelphia (about 3 hours from here) and wished to have this item framed with the accompanying pieces of artifacts attesting to the note's history and provenance.
So, they made the trek to come down here and we discussed framing options and how the signed note would be protected from adverse elements. Being such a prize find, they wanted to ensure its longevity and create a museum display piece to be admired. After seeing and reading the papers and history, I completely understand.
The note refers to a boy by the name of John Quincy Adams. No, not the president, but the namesake the boy shared with the president who served as president about about 40 years prior.
It was stated that the president was visiting a hospital in Washington, D.C. when he came upon a young boy, about 12, who was wounded in the war. Lincoln was known to visit soldiers, who were wounded in the tedious years of the war, through his personal travels. The young boy touched Lincoln's heart deeply. The young lad's condition and need for his mother moved Lincoln emotionally.
Disregarding the strict, firm rules of military life, Lincoln immediately wrote on this card "Send him to his mother. A.Lincoln Jan. 19, 1865" This allowed the boy to be dismissed from the hospital and sent to the care of his mother.
This short note demonstrated President Lincoln's care and admiration for those who fought against a divided nation, especially the young men who were thrown into a bitter and agonizing war of brother against brother.
An incredible piece as this short note evokes the harsh realities many of our young men faced when they left home and took up arms in an unpopular struggle.
This note, written and signed in the hand of President Abraham Lincoln, deserved only the finest protection of high quality framing. This incredible piece of history that Lincoln emotionally wrote to a young lad lying in a hospital will be protected for many years.
As a young boy, my interests involved collecting a variety of things: Comic books, rocks, shells, even bugs. It was enjoyable to accumulate many varieties and types of these items. It was very challenging and fun to seek items which were unique and popular. It was even fun collecting things other people wanted.
For those of you old enough to remember, Wacky Packages® were popular trading cards in the early 70s which poked fun of food products sold in grocery stores. They were actively collected by elementary school students. The coveted Choke Wagon card was an example of a very sought after card due to its rarity. The card was a humorous depiction of Chuck Wagon, a popular dog food of the time. Children were thought to be cool if they owned the card back then.
Guess what? Nothing has changed for adults. If it's popular, rare and expensive, affluent adults will demand it. Whether it's a rare and expensive car, coin or any other collectible, wealthy people will seek it and buy it. For example, paintings by artists like Picasso, Van Gough and Gauguin, bring well into the millions of dollars.
Mark Rothko's artwork, known for his distinct yet "simple" abstract paintings, commands tens of millions of dollars, with one that brought close to $90 million (2012), consisting of splotches of red, orange and yellow colors. At the time, it was the highest paid for postwar (WWII) artwork at auction.
What causes such art to bring millions by collectors? Supply and demand. The supply may be adequate given the artists, but demand is what really drives the prices in these cases. Wealthy people feel that they are part of an elite crowd if they own or collect these expensive artworks.
During my later grade school years, my interest evolved into baseball cards and coins. Baseball cards were fun collecting with my friends, however, my interests quickly expanded into coins. Owning an attractive silver coin that was over 100 years old hit me strong and became more appealing.
When you get the collecting bug, it's hard to stop. Collecting can be an exciting way of learning about the histories of different cultures, civilizations and certain time periods. The task of assembling a collection and eventually needing to fill a set is exciting and challenging. Ah, yes, the thrill of the hunt!
These challenges make collecting fun and popular. In the beginning, forming a collection is usually easy and doesn't require as much money. Then as you fill the "holes" in a set or grouping (silver dollars, presidential autographs, etc.), it gets more difficult, and thus, more costly.
Keep in mind that as you build a collection, you are also building equity in a fun way.
Whatever you decide to collect, you will soon find out that collecting is fun, rewarding and educational.
Being in the archival framing business for over 30 years, it was common for people to bring in their previously framed artwork and other personal effects whenever they noticed any deterioration with their artwork.
This would include some showing signs of fading, discoloration or other related negative effects to their artwork. We would remove the guts from the frame and examine the contents to see what materials and workmanship was employed..
When disassembled, it was usually noticed the glass or acrylic was NON UV filtering. That's right. Regular cheap glass was used when conservation glazing was needed to protect the item. The works were usually framed within the past 10 to 20 years of the framing when UV filtered glazing was available.
When a photograph, document or other item has fading, it is nearly impossible to restore it to its original condition. And, do you notice those stores that offer photo restoration? Well, they aren't really restoring the photo.
That's right. The so-called "photo restoration" stores, who offer this service don't really restore the original photograph. They just scan the original damaged photograph and digitally enhance it, printing a copy. But, unfortunately, the original is still faded.
If there is no sentimental, historical or monetary value to the original item, then a reproduced copy may suit you fine. However, if there is any important value in your artwork or photograph, then it is strongly recommended you use a trained professional conservator experienced in true photograph restoration.
For antique photographs and other important documents, never use an amateur. Professional conservators can be found through other experts in related fields or conservation organizations.
To prevent artwork and other related items from fading when framing, make sure you take two precautions. 1) Use 99% UV filtering glass or acrylic in the framing of the art or photograph and, 2) Keep your art out of direct sunlight and other bright lighting. The combination of these two factors will protect your original artwork for many years.
Normal indoor light away from the path of direct sunlight (indoor light) is allowed and expected. Just ensure that direct light is not hitting it and the use of UV filtered glazing.
When I see artwork containing the proper glazing and out of direct sunlight, it still maintains its original condition years later.
Remember, as "curator" of your own little gallery, it is up to you to protect and ensure proper framing materials and techniques in preserving and protecting your items for many years..
Monopoly is perhaps the most popular, discussed and recognizable game ever created. It is one game that, even in this digital age, is still enjoyed by millions of people throughout the world. There are even spin offs of the game manufactured covering any topic you can imagine.
Did you know that Lizzie Magie, a game designer, abolitionist, and anti-monopolist designed the Monopoly game in the early 1900s but with a different name, The Landlord's Game? Magie invented the game about 30 years before Charles Darrow came up with the idea, which he named Monopoly.
Magie, a progressive woman for her time, opposed prominent monopolists like John D. Rockefeller and Andrew Carnegie. Magie felt that monopolies prevented free market economies and thus, prohibited wealth creation. Her game was actually devised to show the poor effects of having wealth concentrated on a few people by establishing monopolies in business industries, like oil and real estate..
In the 1930s, Darrow, a heater salesman who lost his job during the stock market crash of 1929, devised a very similar game, under the name Monopoly, which he sold for millions to Parker Brothers while also reaping the rewards of royalties. Darrow was the first millionaire game designer in history, even though Chuck Todd showed Darrow the game in Atlantic City, New Jersey. Notice the properties on the board game involved Atlantic City names?
Although Darrow is credited with Monopoly's creation, Elizabeth Magie, the original inventor who came before Darrow, never received credit. As a matter of fact, she is rarely mentioned as having any involvement in the world's most popular board game.
Before Darrow approached Parker Brothers with the idea, Magie approached them on two separate occasions, 1910 and 1924. Her second meeting with Parker Brothers showed an improved, more detailed version. Unfortunately, they declined both times.
Of course, initially, Parker Brothers turned down Darrow's idea, too. But, after successful sales of the game to friends, family and others in Philadelphia reached Parker Brothers, they decided to purchase the game from him in 1935 and published it.
While Darrow gained fame and fortune through Monopoly, Magie made less than $500. Her real intent was strictly educational, teaching people about single tax theory. Although she died without much money and resented Parker Brothers and Darrow, she hoped people understood the negative effects of monopolies in wealth creation.